Vernacular Favorites to Celebrate National Architecture Week

It’s National Architecture Week and that got me thinking about some of the most interesting buildings I’ve seen lately.  Keeping in mind the fun my friends over at The Blue Line had with Top 10 lists recently, I didn’t want to come up with Ten Most Amazing Buildings or My Top Ten Historic Buildings. Instead I browsed through photos from trips over the past few years and selected a few particularly memorable vernacular building types.

Gassho house in Shirakawa-go, Japan

Gassho house in Shirakawa-go, Japan

Shirakawa-go, in the Japanese alps, was a complete surprise to me. I was not expecting to see snow still on the ground and I certainly didn’t expect to feel like I was back in Switzerland! The way the houses are dotted on the hillside and in a small cluster in the center, not to mention the buildings’ size and shape, all reminded me of Swiss alpine villages. Those commonalities certainly make you think about how much our buildings are shaped by their environment and how similar solutions emerge in similar environments.

The Gassho houses are wood and have steeply pitched roofs. In Switzerland, in Zermatt for example, the oldest houses have stone roofs. In Shirakawa-go, they are thickly thatched. The largest of the houses have several stories, with the top used for silk worm cultivation and production. The interiors are darkened from the smoke from the fires inside, which acts as a preservative. The family member we chatted
with explained that houses that are “smoked” last significantly longer than those that our not. I didn’t ask about the effect of the smoke on their lungs!
New thatching

The spring day we were there, one of the houses was being rethatched. The workers  were using some modern equipment such as aluminum ladders (and hardhats!) but the materials and the method were the same as they been for hundreds of years.

My other selection for the day is the dialou, or tower houses, of Kaiping, China. These are fascinating because they are a response to the social and political environment of their time rather than the physical environment. The building type itself dates back over 500 years and was traditionally defensive towers that could shelter an entire village from storms or attacks.

Kaiping Dialou

One of the 1800 dialou in the Kaiping Dialou and Villages World Heritage Site

There are approximately 1800 early 20th century dialou in the The Four Counties region, which is the homeland of many Chinese who emigrated to America, Canada and Australia in the late 19th century. In the 1930s the region was overrun with bandits during a lawless time. Upon their return to China with their fortunes, the overseas Chinese again built fortified houses, but incorporated fanciful architectural detailing that they had seen in places such as San Francisco and Vancouver. Functionally, they were very traditional, with brick stoves and separate kitchens for the different sons’ wives, and altars for ancestral workshop on the top floors.

Interior of one of the best preserved dialou

Interior of one of the best-preserved dialou

Their decoration and ornament however were very different. The buildings had the typical painting over the door way but the Chinese motifs incorporate, or are even replaced by other elements. In one house, there is that most American of symbols: an eagle with arrows in its talons.

 

 

Learn more:

Doorway painting

This doorway shows the journeys the builder took overseas to earn his fortune and then return to build his house

The Devil is in the (Architectural) Details

I find historic houses visually striking for many reasons, but primarily because of the detail they contain. A nice set of dentils along a cornice line, complex window and door surrounds, and shutters all add a sense of solidity to a house. In comparison, most new tract houses don’t have those details and, to my eye, always seem to be missing a little something.

Parlor of the Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum

Parlor of the Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum

Of course maintaining these details – which are often wood and therefore need to be painted regularly – is an unending chore and needless to say, an act of love . There’s a reason why aluminum siding is laid right over exterior detailing!

Maintaining interior architectural details takes just as much effort, and after a hundred years or so, layers of paint can build up and some of the finer detail can get lost. Then it’s dilemma time for the preservationist. Do you want to strip the paint completely and repaint to end up with a nice crisp finish, or merely remove loose and failed paint, leaving a patina – a trail of history – as you apply the newest coat of paint?

This issue is one of several being addressed at Adventures in Preservation’s latest project at the Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum in the Bronx, New York. (Previous projects at the site have focused on restoring garden walkways.) Volunteers will be working with an architectural conservator to undertake a historically sensitive restoration of the house’s interior shutters. They will also receive instruction and guidance in removing lead paint and discuss other relevant curatorial, preservation, and environmental issues.

The Bartow-Pell Mansion and Garden

The Bartow-Pell Mansion

The Greek Revival Bartow-Pell Mansion, a National Historic Landmark owned by the City of New York and operated by the Bartow-Pell Conservancy, dates from approximately 1842. Designed by an unknown architect, it graces the shores of Pelham Bay, the last of the country houses in the area.

Learn more:

Shutter Shop on Shore Road – An Adventure in Preservation

Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum

The Great Wall of China

Section of the Ming Dynasty Wall - Jason George

Section of the Ming Dynasty Wall

From almost any perspective, even, or particularly, that of a preservationist, it’s hard to define the Great Wall of China – is it a building, is it a structure, is it a cultural landscape? Regardless of how you define it, once you see it in person, you will have a new respect for it and a greater understanding of the enormity of the task of building it.

I recently hiked with my family along a few segments of the Wall’s 8,851 kilometer length as part of a Wild Wall Weekend, organized by William Lindesay. The trips are just one facet of the conservation and outreach efforts he conducts tirelessly.

William, as a long distance runner, got it into his head back in the 1980s to walk the distance of the Wall. It took several attempts – due to injury, arrests, and even a deportation – but in 1987 he traveled 2,470 km alone and on foot along the route of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall between Jiayuguan and Shanhaiguan. As he tells the story, his life with the Wall began as an adventure, then become focused on research and is now devoted to conservation. Since founding The International Friends of the Great Wall  in 2001, William has become the world’s most outspoken advocate for preservation of the Wall and works with an international coalition of governments, sponsors and supporters to protect it.

According to William, “wall” is a misnomer, as the “Great Wall” is actually a series of walls, some 14 of them in fact, built at various times, but all with the purpose of keeping invaders out.

Given that the Wall is built at the highest points of the land it protects, the hikes up to it and down from it were as long as the hike alongside or on top of it, but all that elevation gain was well worth it. We learned a lot about the Wall and its history, and particularly about the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644) section of the Wall where we hiked. The majority of the Ming Wall is built from brick on top of a stone foundation (other sections are built of rammed earth). The stones were always quarried locally; some of them can weigh a metric tonne. Using local stone not only saved transporting them but also contributed to the steepness of the slope on the “outside” of the Wall.

Tower along the Great Wall - Jason George

Detail of one of the towers, note the missing tablet above the entry way

The bricks were manufactured nearby and are uniform in dimension. The Wall is essentially an elevated road and has (or had, as the case may be) battlements along each edge. The Wall is interrupted on a regular basis by an undulating series of towers. William’s sons explained the purposed of the towers as the four “S’s: Shelter, Storage, counterSeige, and Signaling. The towers are beautifully built, filled with overlaying series of interconnected arches. Many of these arches were in excellent condition but there were also quite a few that you would not choose to walk under, just in case.

The white mortar contains lime and rice flour, which is a very strong and durable combination. While the touristy sections in Badaling and Simatai have been rebuilt and repointed, the sections we saw all still had their original mortar.

Despite the permanence of its construction, the Wall is in no way intact. For many years, the Wall was raided, by people taking the bricks for their own construction needs. Nature has also run its course – grasses, plants and even trees grow on top of the Wall. Yet despite this, the glimpse of some of these wild sections of the Wall, whether from below or from a tower looking along the length of a section, is awe inspiring.

Tower along the Great Wall - Jason George

One of the many towers along the Great Wall

The conservation of this incredible landscape is not to be taken for granted, but progress is being made.

More Reading:

Great Wall of China Wikipedia Entry

UNESCO World Heritage Listing

More on Muppets and Architecture

After my post about recruiting Elmo to promote historic preservation, I decided to do a bit of research. Did you know there’s an entire Wiki devoted to Muppets? Neither did I!

I.M. Pig from Sesame Street I  found a Sesame Street episode in which Big Bird asks an architect (hilariously I. M. Pig) for advice on rebuilding his nest, but after much consultation learns that his own traditional nest building skills are perfectly suited for him. A lesson for us all.